A nearly 700km rough dirt track through the Kimberly’s. A journey that had us exploring so many gorges and waterfalls we were left “gorged out”.

Our Gibb started a little different to others. Along the road we saw a man running with what looked like an Olympic torch. Slowing down for a better look and see if he needed anything, “run for peace” read his shirt. His support car was up further. Ahead we drove for a chat. Turns out there is a group that travel the world to raise awareness for peace and friendship. Nothing else. This year they are running around the whole of Australia, 15,000kms in 4 months.

Next moment Bec was pulling on her joggers, torch in hand and running the next 7km leg with Mishy, a professional runner from Russia.

Windjana Gorge

A short hike through a 375-million-year-old reef.

As we walked through the gap in the cliffs, we were met with a waterhole. Its banks lined with Freshwater Crocs sun baking in the early morning sun. The first crocs we have seen on the trip.

The first crocs we saw. A few freshies, sunning themselves on the other side of the bank.

As we continued to wander up the track, along the banks, we spotted a massive freshie. So big Bec thought it was a log. As we grabbed the camera to zoom in and check it out. Yep definitely a croc, a big one. As we took a picture a few ladies approached saying they had been told “no swimming, there is a big salt water croc in the water at the moment”. Everyone we met on the track was debating if that big guy was a freshie or a salty. We think he is a big freshie as he has a pointy nose.

The croc then moved to sun bake with this other little guy. We are going with its a freshie.

Tunnel Creek

Now all hot and sweaty, it was time for Tunnel Creek. Out of hiking gear and into our swimmers, wetsuits and headlamps. As we scrambled over the rocks and entered the tunnel, everything went dark. Headlamps on.

In order to get into the tunnel, you have to walk then swim through some very chilly water. Wadding and swimming through the water, we were so grateful for the wetsuits to help us stay warm.

It did feel a little earie to swim through water which had crocs in it. Mind you they are the harmless freshwater ones, but still makes you a little uneasy.

What an adventure this tunnel felt like. Shinning our headlamps everywhere, looking from the beautiful formations on the ceiling to searching for crocodiles in the water. We spotted a few, their red eyes glowing as the torch light reached them.

Deeper into the tunnel and an opening appeared, with vines & trees drapping down to blue/green waters. The scene something from a movie. Just beyond it an incredible formation, looking like an underground castle out of Indiana Jones. On the way back we climbed and explored this castle like structure.

Bell Gorge

This spot became more than just a gorge for us; it is where we got engaged.

Arriving just before sunset, carpark nearly empty, we set out to watch the sunset over the gorge. Bec had other plans, the ring tucked safely away in the backpack.

As we reached the gorge, the last couple were leaving. Perfect! We peeled off our clothes and went for a swim on top of Bell Falls, hanging over the rocks to watch the water fall into the river below.

Dried, dressed Bec asked Astrid to go and stand on the rocks next to the falls for a “photo”. Thinking nothing of it, Astrid climbed down. Camera on record, heart hammering, ring now in her pocket, Bec climbed down to meet Astrid. Got down on one knee, everything she planned to say, gone but managed to say “my love, I knew from the very beginning that you were my person. You are my always. Will you marry me?” “yes”

The unexpected, Astrid then got down on her knee. Told Bec what was on her heart and asked her to marry her.

25th June 2025 in Bell Gorge at sunset, we got engaged.

The next day we decided to set out early and spend the day hiking through the gorge and see how far up we could reach.

First to swim at the base of Bell Falls, the spot we got engaged last night.

As we swam closer, the force of the water pushed us back. Time and time again we tried. The water was too strong, exhausted we drifted back into the rocks to continue the climb. Swimming hole after swimming hole we walked and swam through the gorge until we reached the most spectacular waterfall.

The rocks and cliffs too high for us to climb back up if we jumped off the falls, we chose to sit at the top and enjoy the view and the peace. It had now been hours, others started to arrive. With hungry bellies we decided to head back.

What we left was magnificent, what we came back to was still magnificent but had more of a public swimming pool feeling: completely packed with people. Definitely not the same feeling. We decided, the Gibb, we will come early or late and enjoy having the place to ourselves.

Enjoy our Bell Gorge experience

As we pulled in to get fuel, had a chat to the lady … the next 4 gorges we were to see were closed. Back to the drawing board to see where to next.

Adcock Gorge

Arriving just on sunset we went for a short walk to check it out.

With the gorge to ourselves we jumped in for a swim.
Off with the clothes and into swimmers. Diving in and swimming to the water fall and into the middle of the swimming hole. The thought of freshwater crocs still enough to make us feel a little uncomfortable, swimming back to the edges.
Back at camp we were met with a horrible reality: carrots in plastic bags don’t last in this heat. 4kgs of carrots had turned to slime, leaking through the bags, through the pantry and into the pots and pans below. Our evening was spent cleaning everything the slime touched. A carrot-less Gibb Trip for us.

The carrots the cannot be trusted!
Back at Adcock Gorge, who rolled in, Kit & Ben. A couple we have become friends with and now met a few times on the trip. As we got talking, they told us that they had to skip Bell Gorge as its not dog friendly. We jumped at the opportunity to doggy sit and allow them to explore “kid free”. So we doggy sat Percy for the day and played a lot of fetch. Turns out it was also their anniversary.

We spent the night around the fire chatting and catching up. Having been out of reception since we got engaged, we haven’t had the opportunity to tell anyone, not even our families. Kit and Ben were the first person we told.

Galvans Gorge

An easy 1.5km walk in to discover one of the cutest waterholes/waterfalls in the Gibb. Having arrived late, we had it to ourselves and jumped in for a swim. Climbing up the rocks to sit under the waterfall, the warm water washing over us. The rocks and water formed a little pocket, big enough to climb in and wide behind the waterfall.

Mount Barnett Roadhouse

A fuel and water top up point but also where you have to go to gain access to Manning Gorge. $10 per person day pass (from 8am), but now having got the taste for early starts and the entire gorges to ourselves we tried to find an option to start early. By a day pass for tomorrow, not allowed, you have to pay for a campsite $25 per person. Had a chat, no drones allowed either, no permit options.

The wall of number plates at the roadhouse.
30th June, this was also our first bit of service since getting engaged, 5 days later. We pulled up, dying to tell our families, to video call them and see their reactions.

Bec calling her parents to tell them we got engaged.

The road just outside of Mount Barnett Roadhouse

Manning Gorge

5:30am start. So cold we breathe steam. It felt freezing. The challenge, this hike starts with a swim across a river. This early, this cold, the thought was not pleasant.

As we walked down to the stream, a crowd of other campers (who clearly thought we were crazy), came down to watch. Swimmers on and our stuff in the blue barrels to float/swim across, we edged in… it wasn’t as bad as we thought, it was warmer than the air. No gasping, no squealing, the crowd left disappointed.

Bec swimming across the river, clothes dry in the barrel with the crowd leaving behind us.
The hike took us about 45 minutes, and when we reached Manning Gorge… wow. It was worth every shiver. Towering waterfall, rugged cliffs, and still pools, absolutely stunning.

We sat at the base of the falls eating breakfast before climbing the rocks/cliffs to hike along the river and up the gorge.

An endless river and private swimming holes, we wandered for hours before seeing a croc jump into the water. We decided to wait it out and watch him climb out and sunbake. No such luck. Astrid fell asleep, full starfish mode, while Bec grew bored and went for a walk.

Ditching the stake out we opted for a swim

Ellenbrae Station

When you have been out camping for weeks and bread sounds heavenly, the thought of fresh scones with cream and jam … drool worthy. Ellenbrae Station is well know for its legendary scones.

Excited we pulled in and got ourself a scone each. It did not disappoint. 👌

Astrid taking a moment to enjoy the smell of fresh warm scones

Pentecost Crossing

As we drove toward the Pentecost River Crossing, and the scenery got more and more breathtaking. The Cockburn Ranges rose around us like a painting coming to life, deep reds melting into soft pastels as the light changed. The colours, the scale, the silence… it was magic.

As we came over the hill and saw the Pentecost River, we were not disappointed. The wide, shallow river in the foreground, the grand Cockburn Ranges framing the background.

Most people camped right along the river, but Astrid with spotted a spot just up further, with the ranges as the view. Hands down, the best campsite view we have had.

With a view like this we enjoyed a bottle of wine and dancing as the sunset.

The following day we decided we would hike to the bottom of the cliffs if we could. Astrid sent up the drone and found a fence line for us to follow so we didn’t get disorientated. We set off. Complete bush hike, through the tall grass alongside the fence, using a stick to part the grass to keep an eye out for snakes.

After 1.5 hours we began to climb. The heat was kicking in; we were drenched in sweat. 30 mins later we reached the top of the mountain facing the ranges. A height where the entire range unfolded around us from a new perspective, endless ridges, untouched wildness, and not another soul in sight. It felt sacred. We sat and enjoyed this peace before climbing back down to return to Pumba quite hot and sweaty.

Our plan to drive the 4x4 track around the other side of the ranges came to a quick halt when we hit a gate & fence saying private property. A quick google later, El Questro own it and you have to pay a few hundred dollars to access it. Pass, we headed for the gorges around El Questro instead.

El Questro Gorge

At $130 a night camping, we had no intention on spending a lot of time in El Questro. Our first stop: El Questro Gorge. To access it, you need to cross a water crossing with a “Warning: deep water” sign. At first uncertain due to the deepwater sign and no snorkel (we have the factory raised air intake), that’s until we saw a hire car drive straight through. It wasn’t that deep. In we went.

The hike wasn’t long, but it was lush and absolutely beautiful. Red cliffs, dense green jungle vibes, and a peaceful track that led us to a swimming hole. Small but charming and lucky for us, we had it to ourselves. I can't imagine 30 people trying to squeeze in there with floaties and toddlers. That would be chaos.

The waterhole, above.

Back at the car, we spotted an old VW Combi van and got talking. David, the driver, bought it 10 years ago and was road-tripping with his wife and two mates. All in their 30s, living the dream. We have no idea how the 2wd van crossed that river. David was unsure they would make it back without getting stuck. Could we go first and tow them through if they got stuck? Of course.

Nearly half way into the crossing… the Combi’s engine died.

Bec reversed Pumba into the river, hooked up the van, and towed that beautiful old beast back to safety. A Troopy pulling a vintage Combi through a river? Now that’s the kind of ad Toyota should be running.

Luckily, David knew his van inside out. He drained the engine, did a bit of troubleshooting, and sure enough, they were back on the road in no time. Legends.