In search of lost cities
In a world between the Gulf of Carpentaria and the highway that joins the North & South of the Northern Territory lies a long, rough dirt track. Connected to it, many other dirt tracks leading to unknown places. Our plan to discover the worlds of the lost cities. Well they aren’t really lost cities, instead large dome like formations to explore.
11th August – Mataranka
The plan: to spend the day kayaking through Katherine Gorge .
What happened: went to Mataranka and made our way towards the Western Lost City instead.
Heading out of town, Astrid checked the price of kayak hire in Katherine Gorge. It was going to cost us at least $200 for half day hire… and it looked like it was accessible only via kayak, no hikes. Change of plans. Lets soak and float in the thermal springs instead. To Mataranka he head.
Wandering up the path to the springs we bumped into a couple who gave us noodles to float on, they didn’t need them anymore and someone gave it to them. So what we thought would never happen, we were now part of noodle club.
Bec and Astrid at Mataranka springs
The water was luke warm but crystal clear. We floated and “swam” with the current until we hit the swim no further sign and forced to get out. Climbing out you could see the croc trap ahead. Apparently they capture freshies often in the springs, no salties (thank god).
Bec having a great time lol
“one more time?” “yep” and the noodle race was on. Running and giggling like kids. Round 2. Drift, float swim and play noodle games. We enjoyed Bitter Springs. Although we did opt to bypass the other thermal spring as they had concreted some of the walls, the less natural feel had us not interested.
Some strange fight
Instead Astrid finished the Pumba walk through video while Bec had a nap and we drove an hour towards the Western Lost City, pulling into a clearing for camp. No reception, chatting outside sipping on margaritas while the sunset, was a nice way to spend the evening.
12th August – Western Lost City
Woke up in a gravel pit next to a burnt-out car. Sounds terrible. It was great, just us, the birds and the red dirt for our morning workout.
Today was a bit of a drive, nearly 5 hours to the Ranger Station to get the code to enter the Western Lost City. Hours of corrugations, washouts and bulldust. Along the drive we were lucky enough to see a wild donkey family (little baby donkey and all) and a dingo. The first dingo of the trip that we got a really good look at.
Donkeys and Dingos
Up a little rock path and into what felt like an empty building “hello?” out came Cliff. Explaining how the coded lock works and where to camp in the area. Sign in as you enter and sign out, that way he knows if you are at the lost city or not. Also no hiking tracks anymore, it’s too close to a sacred site.
Our timing could not be more perfect. An enjoyable 4x4 track in to see the domes of the lost city coming into view, just before sunset. A little walk around and we sent the drone up for a look. Searching the landscape until the sun disappeared. Had dinner, then began the hour and a bit drive back out.
Drone filming
Checking out the Western Lost City by the sky. The walks have closed down as they are too close to sacred sites but drone is allowed if you have a permit.
We are completely covered in dirt but happy
Where to camp? Well we hoped you could camp at the Western Lost City, nope. Not wanting to back track we continued in the direction of the Southern Lost City, planning to pull off when we saw a track.
Western Lost City Logbook
Signing back in the old school log book. Entries dating back to 2016. Average 2 people a day checking it out.
First track, Butterfly Falls … nah people, we will take the next one. Astrid was on maps, she found one. As we drove Pumba’s headlight began to sway on the corrugations. Getting out to tighten the bolt again, realising we should of bought more than just the cone nutt, should of replaced the bolt.
Late and tired we pulled in to the track on the map … we drove further than we thought, we were at the Lost City already. Hema just didn’t label it. Park, shower, bed!
Opening the rear doors to discover the inside under a layer of dust.
13th August – Southern Lost City
Woken by the screeching of Cockatoo’s, Astrid rolled over and looked out the window “the Southern Lost City is right there!”. Turns out we parked right at the base, with the domes, beginning to glow just before sunrise, completely filling our view. One of the best views of the trip! Perks to finding camp in the dark, the morning is a total surprise.
The day was chill, after a big days drive yesterday, today’s plan was to take it easy. I spent the day catching up on photo edits and writing. Astrid preparing for videos for send it for the strays and making a reel.
Early afternoon, the ranger (a different one) arrived and we got the “your not camping here are you” and the its time to move on vibes. So we finally went for a walk through the Southern Lost City.
Half the size in formations but getting to go in front, through and behind them this felt cool as we got to get amongst them. Half way you walk to a lookout and can see another lost city off in the distance (but not the Western). A sign at the entrance explained that they were formed by the ridge line cracking and falling away, the remaining rocks were then smoothed off by wind.
Walking through the Southern Lost City
If coming this way, I would definitely recommend to see both, the Southern to experience walking amongst them and the Western for the 4x4 adventure to get their and see them at a much bigger size. Neither were Bungle Bungles in wow as not as big but still very cool and I’m glad we saw them.
Deciding we will take the Rangers visit as a warning we moved on to a spot a short drive away out of the National Park. It turned out to be a beautiful evening, recorded our next reel for Send it for the Strays, then chatted for hours from sunset to watching the stars then the moon rise, drinking wine until we got hungry. Evenings like this leave us feeling connected, happy and present.
Wine, haloumi and crackers turned into a 5hr chit chat.